whats an easier way to pottytrain your dog?

Crate training, research it.

A LOT OF PUP’S DONT GO OUTSIDE FOR A FEW MONTHS ,WE DONT KNOW WHY .
BUT I WOULD GET SOME WEE-WEE PADS AND PUT THEM WHERE SHE PEES AND POOP’S TILL SHE GOS OUT SIDE.

HOPE THIS HELPS

10-week-old puppies need to go out about every 30-60 minutes. Also, she’ll need to go out immediately after every nap, meal, and playtime.

Also, like the other person said, research and implement crate training, it really helps.

Look into taking her to puppy class when she’s had her shots, and consider reading a book about raising a puppy. I recommend “Puppy Kindergarten” by John Ross (should be at your local library).

House Training Puppies and Dogs

If given a choice, dogs prefer to eliminate away from the areas where they eat, sleep, and play. Dogs eliminate in the house for a variety of reasons:
- There might be a medical cause for the problem.
- The dog might not have been properly trained to eliminate outside.
- The dog might be marking his territory.
- The dog might urinate when excited, intimidated, anxious or upset.

House training is accomplished by establishing a surface and location preference AND by preventing the dog from eliminating in unacceptable places. Crating and confinement needs to be kept to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for the puppy or dog to learn to “hold it.” Understand that house training demands an investment of time and effort. Puppies are sometimes not fully house trained until they are 8-12 months of age. As a general rule, a puppy can only hold his waste for the same number of hours that he is old, in months. In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone during the day longer than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside. By the time the pup is four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside. Adult dogs adopted from shelters are often not fully housetrained and need a refresher course.

What to do:

1. Keep the dog on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.

2. Know where your dog is at all times. To anticipate and prevent accidents, you need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing and leaving the room. If you see any of these, take the dog outside as quickly as possible. Not all dogs learn to let their owner know they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside.

3. If you cannot watch the dog, confine him to a crate, a small room (with the door closed or baby-gated), or tether him to you with a leash that does not give him much leeway. Gradually, over days or weeks, give the dog more freedom. If the dog eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (maybe 15-20 minutes to start). If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time out of confinement.

4. Accompany the dog outside and reward him with praise, treats, play, or a walk whenever he eliminates outdoors. It’s best to take the dog to the same place each time, as the smells may prompt the dog to eliminate. Some dogs will eliminate early on in a walk; others need to move about and play for a bit first.

5. Take the dog outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, playtime and naps. All dogs should get out first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and before being confined or left alone. Adult dogs must get out at least four times a day.

6. If you can catch the dog in the act of eliminating inside, SHRIEK loudly. Immediately run to the dog and rush him outside. If he is small, pick him up; otherwise, just grab him by the collar and run outside with him. The idea is to startle him, which should stop him in mid-stream. Allow the dog to finish outside, and reward him. If you do not catch the dog in the act, do not do anything to the dog.

7. Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleanser to minimize odors that might attract the dog back to the same spot.

What not to do:

- Do not rub the dog’s nose in his elimination.

- Do not scold the dog, unless you catch him in the act of eliminating in an inappropriate place.

- Never, ever physically punish the dog for accidents; that includes hitting with a rolled-up newspaper.

- Do not crate your dog if he is soiling in the crate.

- If the dog enjoys being outside, don’t bring the dog inside right after he eliminates—he may learn to “hold it” to stay outside.

- Do not use an ammonia-based cleanser. As urine contains ammonia, this could attract the dog back to the same spot to urinate again.

Above all, please be patient! If a puppy has an accident, it is not because he is spiteful or lacking in the ability to learn—it’s because the owner failed to adequately supervise him, didn’t take him outside frequently enough, or ignored or was unaware of the dog’s signals to go outside.
Canine Paper Training

Before we begin, we must make it clear—it is far preferable to teach a dog right from Day One that outside is the place to eliminate.

We don’t recommend paper training unless there is a specific reason why it is necessary— if you have a puppy and live in a high-rise apartment, for example, or if you have an untrained dog or puppy and you have mobility problems. Training a puppy or dog to eliminate indoors results in confusion when you first attempt to take him outdoors to eliminate. By this time, he has learned that it is acceptable to eliminate in the home and may have developed a preference for eliminating on a specific substrate, such as papers, housetraining pads or adult diapers.

Training a puppy or dog to use a papered area in your home is accomplished in essentially the same manner as training him to eliminate outside. First, confine the puppy or dog for a period of time so that he is reluctant to eliminate, and then bring him, on leash, to the paper. Wait until the dog eliminates, and praise and reward him with treats for eliminating in the correct place. If the dog has an accidents anywhere but on the paper, you should shriek to startle him, pick the dog up or take him by the collar and run to the paper so he can finish in the appropriate place. Restrict the dog’s access to a small area of the home so you can monitor his whereabouts. If you gradually increase the dog’s access to new areas of the house, you will maintain his inclination to return to the papered area. If you are unable to keep an eye on him, he should be confined to a small area where he will not eliminate until he is fully trained.

Some dogs are sloppy about staying within the boundaries of the paper. Make sure the papers are replaced frequently, so the dog is not forced to move off the paper to avoid getting his feet soiled. It often helps the dog to understand exactly where he should eliminate if you somehow delineate the space with a visual marker. You can set up low garden fencing to surround the area with an opening for the dog to move through, or provide your dog with an indoor bathroom, such as the Patio Park. These contain a two- by four-foot section of grass, kept alive by a self-irrigation system. The grass is surrounded by a white-picket fence and fronted with a yellow fire hydrant. The sod needs to be sprayed regularly with odor neutralizer and replaced monthly. A less attractive, but highly effective alternative solution is to place a plastic tarp on your balcony (it must be enclosed, please!) and cover the tarp with grass sod. The benefit of using sod is that the dog develops a preference for eliminating on grass, and so will be equally comfortable eliminating outdoors.

Well, you could always crate your puppy, but here is what I did. (This is gross but,) I just took some of her dried out poo (It gives off a certain smell) and put it under a blue mat. I trained her to go there by giving her treats, and she was also attracted by the scent. After she was trained with this, I put the mat outside. Eventually, she got used to the mat being outside and started to go outside. Then I just took away the mat and she went outside on her own. That’s one easy way of doing it.

Hi ! What I did with my Dottson was I bought a baby gate and
closed off a small section and put newspapers over the whole
floor. For about 2 weeks I let him go outside until he potty. So
after about 1-2 weeks I put a pad down that looked like the newspaper in his room and he went on the pad instead of the
floor. Hope this helped.

Hey get him a pet carrier or large open air type cage so he can see out and get plenty of air into. When you leave and can’t take him with you put him up. Just as soon as you return, take him out and outside all in one step and it shouldn’t be long before you see a change in him. He will start beating you to the door as soon as he is released from his “Kennel”, and you will be much happier also. A treat goes a long way also, but only for a “successful” trip outside, not just because he went outside and came back in.

Are you staying with her when she is outside? The best way to start teaching her is to take her outside on a long leash to a designated spot where you want her to relieve herself. Let her sniff around a while. It takes a lot of patience on your part but eventually she will perform. When she does give her lots of praise and maybe a little treat for being a “good girl” then take her straight indoors.

You will need to do this first thing in the morning, then again after she has had her breakfast, after she has been asleep for a while, after every meal and after she has been playing indoors. Always take her out last thing at night before you settle her down for the night.

It’s no use just putting the puppy outside and letting her wander around on her own. You have to teach her why she is out there otherwise she will never learn where she is supposed to go.

It’s a long and tedious chore potty training a puppy and it can take up a lot of your time but if you are consistent with your regime you will have a clean puppy in no time.

Just remember that puppies do not have any real control over their bodily functions until they are about 6 months old so she is bound to have the odd ‘accident’ even though you are training her but if you are vigilant and get to know the signs of when she needs to go outside, she will eventually walk towards the exit door and whimper to be let outside.

Good luck.

take it to a certen place every time you walk it if it still goes in side u should bye *** pee pads

try walking with her on a leash. when she goes praise her and give a treat. don’t bring in until she goes.

She is still too little to be potty trained, but you are almost there, so hang in there. The bladder isn’t grown until 6-months-old. Here are some potty training tips, use what helps, and leave the rest, but I think you just need a little more time. Hang in there.

I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don’t potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn’t. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident I use a word like “shame” and take her out right away. When correcting, I use a stern, firm voice, but I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go *** right away, but may not go **** until 10 minutes later, so wait for the ****. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn’t had an accident in several weeks, I don’t let my guard down. I don’t expect my puppies to be “fully potty trained” until the 6 to 8-month-old time frame, and depending on the puppy, one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a “big girl.” This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing “no barking”, ‘no biting”, “no jumping”, and “don’t eat the furniture.” I also have to practice “playing inside” so she doesn’t knock over things. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:

*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. While personally, the crate traumatizes me, (it looks like a doggie jail), my puppies do better in the crate. They like it, I guess for the den like feeling, but I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. It is a safe secure place for them. However, use the method that works best for you…..a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, child gates……whatever works for you.

*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don’t have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don’t have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them. Although I use them to give pills too. I used different treats for different things. We use one bone at bedtime to let the dogs know it is time to go to bed. We use a big rawhide for when we go on long trips, so they have a bone to amuse them, and they will be expected to hold their potty. When they get the rawhide, they will not eat their food and water, until we get home from our trip. (dogs are funny) Do what works best for you.

*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like “go out” for #1, or “go finish” for #2 might work for you. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won’t get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place.

*Yelling. It is not a good idea to “yell” or “spank” your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again.

*Sometimes it seems like you take your puppy out 5 million times a day. You can sit on a bench, or folding chair, or a 5 gallon bucket turned upside down to stay in the shade. I use an umbrella for shade too. You can always tape your favorite tv shows. In the winter I microwave a gel pack heating pad, (sold at walmart in the pharmacy, made by Kaz, I think.) I put the heating pad under my jacket so I won’t freeze to death. In the summer, I freeze bottles of water, so we can grab one real fast on our way out the door. I have a mini back pack by the door I can just grab with doggie treats, a flash light, a rubber band for my hair when the wind is bad, etc. Do what works for you.

*Time lines. Keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, so while your last 2 dogs may have trained faster, this puppy might take longer. Training is all about routines, and repeating yourself. It is about rewarding good behaviors, and correcting bad ones. If you have a setback, shake it off, and keep going. Good luck.